Vol. 8: TAKE ME DOWN TO SUMO TOWN

Welcome to TOKYO BEAT – a special series by your trusty Tokyo Tourism Representative (New York Office) that aims to provide you with story ideas and inspiration. When the timing is right, visitors to Tokyo can end up basking in experiences that not even natives can easily take advantage of. One such thing is sumo, the national sport, whose oversized athletes are one of the reigning images that are conjured up by any mention of the Japan. Ryogoku, the famous ‘sumo town’ where all aspects of this tradition are at one’s fingertips, provides unparalleled access to this essential part of Japanese culture.

Once, Twice, Three Times the Sumo For sumo enthusiasts, planning ahead to go to a tournament is a no-brainer, and Ryogoku Kokugikan is where three of the six national championships are held. This 10,000-seat stadium finds itself packed to the gills during three fifteen-day tournaments help during January, May, and September. Ringside and Box Seat tickets are unsurprisingly hard to come by, but every morning, 200 general admission tickets are sold over the counter. Then, starting at 8:00am, ticket holders can enter to mill about with ex-sumo competitors, who often work the events, and then watch the matches that begin at 9:00am and last well after 6:00pm. The Sumo Museum and various restaurants inside the stadium are fantastic diversions during those times when one needs to stretch his or her legs throughout the day.

Training Days But even if you miss your chance to catch an official match, you can always come to Ryogoku to watch sumo wrestlers train and practice at a sumo ‘stables’. Once highly private, as these facilities are where sumo not only train, but also reside, nowadays places like Izutsu Beya, Kasugano Beya, and over 40 others listed on the Japan Sumo Association website (note that not all are located in Ryogoku) are open for visitors most of the year. Those interested in seeing the intense physical work that goes into becoming a champion can get close and personal if they can wake up in the wee hours of the morning. But take note of the rules – photography and fraternizing are prohibited, for example – and do call at least a day in advance, as showing up unannounced is simply bad etiquette.

Calorie Counting Those with hearty appetites can eat like a sumo and with chanko-nabe, the requisite hotpot dish filled with a cornucopia of vegetables and proteins that delivers all of the nutrients a budding Sekitori needs (part of a 8,000 to 10,000 calorie day, for those who are wondering). While sumo stable tours may also include chanko-nabe as part of the itinerary, individuals can visit popular restaurants like Chanko Kawasaki, which is featured in the Michelin guide, Kotogaume, and Tomoegata. Also popular is the shopping and dining center known as Edo Noren. Located inside the Ryogoku train station, it presents 12 food stalls (serving everything from chanko to ramen and sake) that serve as a delicious break from a sumo or cultural tour.

Beyond Sumo In Ryogoku, one can also discover a treasure trove of history and culture beyond sumo. The Sumida Hokusai Museum is a definite must-see, as it features the iconic works of the ukiyoe woodblock master Katsushika Hokusai, from his Great Wave to some of his more salacious works. Formerly the grounds of a samurai residence, the Kyu Yasuda Teien Gardens is a beautiful look back into the city’s lush past, and also houses the Japanese Sword Museum. The traditional knitted indoor sandals known as zori get a contemporary spin at Merikoti, which sells colorful and comfortable versions of this footwear. Finally, the Edo-Tokyo Museum(featured in Vol 3) is also here, where the life-size recreations of the old city are nothing less than a time-traveling marvel.

Tokyo Tourism's website also offers a Go Tokyo Ryogoku Walks and Tours page that gives a great peek into what to expect through a virtual walking tour of Ryogoku.

For more information about how to enjoy sumo in Tokyo, contact press@tokyo-nyc.com or call 917-200-4887. For general information on traveling in Tokyo, head to TokyoTokyo.jp and Gotokyo.org/en/