Vol.25: THE BEST OF EDO DURING TOKYO’S SUMMERS

Welcome to TOKYO BEAT a special series by your trusty Tokyo Tourism Representative (New York Office) that aims to provide you with story ideas and inspiration. The summer season in Tokyo conjures up a lot of beloved rituals from the ancient Edo Period (1603-1868) that stir up feelings of excitement, nostalgia, and more for locals and visitors alike. With events and customs that have been beautifully preserved even today, the following traditions are like taking a time-machine back to a time in Japan and present a unique energy and atmosphere that is unforgettable.

Celebrating the Flowers and Fireworks of Edo For locals, the trumpet-shaped asagao (morning glory) flowers herald the full swing of summer, and their passion for these flowers culminate at the Iriya Asagao-ichi (July 6-8) at Iriya Kishimojin (Shingenji Temple). The origin of this annual flower market dates back to the late Edo Period; one can even find scenes of it depicted in classic ukiyo-e (Japanese woodblock prints and paintings). Today, 60 stalls of asagao florists and 90 vendors line the temple and its neighboring streets. Over 400,000 visitors come to admire their soothing blue and pink hues and purchase them for good fortune.

Its only rival is the hozuki (Chinese lantern plant), whose strikingly red colors are also emblematic of summertime. Hozuki-ichi (July 9, 10), an annual tradition that also dates back to Edo Period, offers the opportunity to purchase this much-admired lucky flower, which was once considered so special that its fruit was eaten for their purported healing properties. On top of that, praying on this day apparently equals 46,000 prayers, which attracts countless Tokyo-ites. There are several locations that hold this event, but the one at Sensoji Temple is the most upscale.

Flowers in Tokyo, however, are not limited to the earth. Hanabi (fireworks) are the flowers of the sky, and hanabi taikai (fireworks festivals) big and small light up the summer calendar. The oldest and one of the biggest is Sumida River Fireworks Festival (July 27), which launches 20,000 fireworks and attracts over 750,000 visitors. The first firework festival over the Sumida River was held in 1733, when the Tokugawa Shogunate sought various ways to cheer up the citizens of Edo after the devastating famine and epidemic in the previous summer. People in Tokyo still pride themselves on setting up elaborate fireworks displays, as well as festivities ranging from food stalls to music and dancing, games, and much more. If there is any time to make an excuse to purchase a colorful yukata (casual kimono made of cotton) and mingle with like-minded celebrants, this is it.

Centuries Old Feeding Frenzy Events like those above are not the only summer highlights that have been enjoyed for centuries in the city of Edo/Tokyo. Summers are the perfect time to float along Tokyo’s rivers on a yakatabune boat, a classic activity that has been a regular fixture for centuries. Since the Edo Period, the well-heeled have taken to these entertainment boats for a leisurely cruise, to enjoy music and performances, and consume delicious meals and drinks while relaxing on tatami mats. These days, it is the perfect throwback to experience how many Tokyo locals long ago (and still) enjoyed their free time, with the added benefit of the city’s modern skyline. There are many types of yakatabune to choose from, ranging from boats that combine comfortable modern amenities with traditional design elements to food-focused boats that specialize in dishes such as sushi or tempura.

Last, but certainly not least, is a food custom that was developed during the Edo Period of feasting on unagi (freshwater eel) during the day(s) of Doyo no Ushi (Midsummer Day of the Ox). The date (or dates) is determined by the lunar calendar and varies from year to year (July 27 in 2019), but it always takes place during the hottest time of the summer. Back in the period when unagi could still be caught in the waters of Edo, unagi sellers created a clever summertime marketing campaign to boost sales. Because of this, Japanese people still psychologically relate unagi to the hot season and consider Grilled Unagi as an energy-boosting dish even today. Luckily, it also delivers in flavor - this must-try food is widely admired for its soft texture, succulence, and delicious sauces. Visitors to Tokyo will face no shortage of restaurants that can cook this delicacy to perfection.

For more information on discovering Edo during the summer, contact press@tokyo-nyc.com or call 917-200-4887. For general information on traveling in Tokyo, head to TokyoTokyo.jp and Gotokyo.org/en/