Vol.23: NIHONBASHI REDUX - A CLASSIC NEIGHBORHOOD GROWS A NEW

Welcome to TOKYO BEAT – a special series by your trusty Tokyo Tourism Representative (New York Office) that aims to provide you with story ideas and inspiration. This time, we set our sights on one of the most historically significant districts of Tokyo – Nihonbashi. During the entirety of the Edo Period, it was the commercial heart the city, as well as the starting point of the famed Tokaido, which served as the country’s most prominent thoroughfare for trade and travel. As other areas like Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Ikebukuro found fame in the 20th Century, Nihonbashi fell out of favor; but today it is seeing a revival akin to New York City’s thriving Lower Manhattan. Here are some suggestions on how to rediscover this incredible neighborhood.

Celebrating Edo’s Commercial Rep While it’s not the first shopping area tourists think of, there is no denying that Nihonbashi laid the foundation for Tokyo’s reputation as a consumer wonderland. The legendary Mitsukoshi, which has been around for 400 years, is still a rite of passage for anyone who comes to Tokyo. Its flagship building, built in 1904, still stands as not only a significant piece of western-influenced architecture, but fully encapsulates the elegance and customer service Japanese department stores are known for. The recently expanded Takashimaya Nihonbashi is also iconic, and its original 1932 location – already reputed for its unparalleled selection of food, wares and hospitality – reopened in 2018 as a contemporary shopping center filled with state-of-the-art spaces and services. But nothing represents the revitalization of the area better than the four towers of COREDO – a slick, entirely modern counterpoint to these historic shopping juggernauts, and renowned for its selection of stylish restaurants and contemporary brands.

Keepsakes Old and New With some stores in Nihonbashi dating back centuries, finding a memento is an anthropologic adventure. Stationery hunters will fall in love with Washi Haibara, a shop that has been selling Japanese paper goods, ranging from colorful wrapping paper to sophisticated letter paper and much more since 1806. Since 1849, Yamamoto Noriten has specialized in nori – dried seaweed – provisions that date back to when Edo’s waters were shallow enough to become renowned for its seaweed cultivation. For those seeking the perfect bottle of sake to bring home, the newest outpost of the famed Hasegawa Saketen is ready to serve. Opened in 2018, is a great example of the area’s revitalization and the perfect place for insightful and delicious tastings. Finally, bookworms are urged to visit the flagship Maruzen bookstore in Nihonbashi, first built in 1869. Today, its modern, multi-story landmark space is filled with English-friendly books and other media ranging from manga to art, cooking, language and more. (Pro tip: Head to the café, where they serve the famed western-inspired dish Hayashi Rice, which was purportedly invented by Maruzen founder Yuteki Hayashi.)

Tasting Generations of Edo-Tokyo Cuisine Both locals and visitors are rediscovering Nihonbashi through its restaurants, which dazzle palates with perfectly executed traditional dishes. Tamahide is the birthplace of the classic dish oyakodon – a comforting, umami-rich dish of simmered chicken, eggs, and onions served over rice – and has been reigning supreme for over 250 years.  While tempura is finally gaining a foothold in New York, places like Kaneko Hannosuke are drawing two-hour lines for its Edomae ten-don, which presents a cornucopia of perfectly fried tempura – a technique popularized during the Edo Period – over rice. Equally popular are the anago (saltwater eel, which were abundant in old Edo) dishes at Tamai Nihonbashi Honten, a new restaurant devoted to the classic anago-meshi, which is oft described as a jewelbox of grilled eel on a bed of rice.  However, a culinary tour would not be complete without some yoshoku (western-inspired food) at Taimeiken, whose fluffy omurice, a perfectly folded oozy omelet over rice, and silky Japanese curry are perfect examples of how Japanese chefs took western flavors and techniques and made them their own.

For more information on exploring Nihonbashi, contact press@tokyo-nyc.com or call 917-200-4887. For general information on traveling in Tokyo, head to TokyoTokyo.jp and Gotokyo.org/en/